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At first, Brazilian chef Alex Atala opened his restaurant in São Paulo in 1999, people told him he’d never succeed. In a country where European cuisine was held in the highest regard, they said, no one would patronize a restaurant serving Brazilian food. Atala, whose restaurant has consistently ranked among the world’s best, has long disproven the naysayers. Using traditional Brazilian ingredients, such as, manioc root and even ants—in innovative ways, he has thrilled diners from around the world.

Still, Atala felt he could do more for his country and its cuisine. In 2012, he founded Instituto Atá to help promote lesser-known ingredients, particularly those of the Amazon basin, while working to protect Brazil’s biodiversity. Hearts of palm, for example, were typically harvested from Brazil’s wild juçara palms in an unsustainable way. Needing eight years to mature, the tree dies once its large heart is removed. Atala began persuading producers to cultivate Amazonian pupunha palms, which grow clusters of stems, each with a small heart. Careful harvesting ensures that the tree will live to yield more hearts, resulting in environmentally friendly production.

Atala prioritizes his working relationships with Amazonian tribes. Utilizing their historical know‑how they have, he aims to bolster tribe members’ livelihoods while exposing a wider audience to Brazilian ingredients. For instance, Baniwa women have farmed distinctly flavorful chili peppers for centuries that use indigenous agricultural techniques, to create a seasoning called pimenta jiquitaia. Partnering with Instituto Atá have enabled these women from a remote rain forest region to scale up production and market their product globally.

Expanding awareness of the rich diversity of Brazil’s native ingredients, Atala continues to lead in deciphering the country’s food culture. With his characteristic passion and intensity, the renowned chef seeks to inspire Brazilians to rediscover the connections between culture, nature, and food.